How to Fix a Leaky Faucet in 30 Minutes (Step-by-Step)

That constant drip, drip, drip from your kitchen or bathroom faucet isn't just annoying—it's literally money going down the drain. A single leaky faucet dripping at one drop per second wastes more than 3,000 gallons of water per year, which can add up to $35 or more on your annual water bill. The good news? Most leaky faucets are surprisingly easy to fix yourself with basic tools and about 30 minutes of your time.

In this comprehensive guide, I'll walk you through exactly how to diagnose and repair any type of leaky faucet, no matter which style you have. You don't need to be a professional plumber or have fancy equipment—just a willingness to get your hands a little dirty and follow some straightforward steps.

Why Your Faucet Is Leaking (And Why It Matters)

Before we dive into repairs, let's understand why faucets leak in the first place. Most leaks occur because of worn-out washers, O-rings, or seals inside the faucet assembly. Over time, these rubber or silicone components deteriorate from constant water pressure and mineral buildup, creating gaps where water can escape.

The financial impact of ignoring a leaky faucet is more significant than most people realize. A faucet dripping at a rate of one drop per second wastes 2,082 gallons annually—that's enough water to take more than 180 showers. At the national average water rate of $1.50 per 1,000 gallons, that's over $35 wasted each year from just one leaky faucet.

If your faucet drips faster—say, 10 drops per second—you're looking at 20,820 gallons wasted and over $350 in unnecessary water costs annually. Multiply that by multiple leaky faucets in your home, and the numbers become even more staggering. That's money you could be saving for something you actually want, similar to the strategies I discuss in my guide on how to lower your water bill.

The Four Types of Faucets (And How to Identify Yours)

Not all faucets are created equal. There are four main types, and knowing which one you have is crucial before you start any repair work. The repair process varies significantly between types, so take a moment to identify your faucet style.

Compression Faucets

Compression faucets are the oldest and most traditional style. They have separate hot and cold handles that you turn clockwise to shut off and counterclockwise to turn on. When you turn the handle, it compresses a rubber washer against a valve seat to stop water flow.

You'll typically find these in older homes built before the 1990s. They're the most prone to leaking because the rubber washers wear out from the constant compression action.

Ball Faucets

Ball faucets have a single handle that moves over a rounded ball-shaped cap. This design is common in kitchen faucets and was one of the first types of washerless faucets. Inside, a slotted metal ball sits on top of springs and rubber seats.

You can identify a ball faucet by its single handle that swivels in all directions on a rounded base. They tend to develop leaks around the base due to worn O-rings or valve seats.

Cartridge Faucets

Cartridge faucets can have either one or two handles. Unlike compression faucets, cartridge handles move up and down as well as side to side, and they don't require compression to stop water flow. The cartridge is a hollow metal or plastic piece with stems and O-rings.

These are extremely common in modern homes because they're reliable and long-lasting. When they do leak, it's usually because the cartridge itself needs replacing or the O-rings have worn out.

Ceramic Disc Faucets

Ceramic disc faucets are the newest and most reliable design. They feature a single handle over a wide cylindrical body and use two ceramic discs that slide against each other to control water flow. One disc is fixed while the other moves when you operate the handle.

These rarely leak because ceramic is incredibly durable and resistant to wear. When they do leak, it's typically due to worn inlet or outlet seals, or sediment buildup between the discs.

Tools and Materials You'll Need

Before you start any faucet repair, gather all necessary tools and materials. Having everything on hand will make the job go smoothly and prevent frustrating mid-project trips to the hardware store. Most of these items are inexpensive and commonly found in basic toolkits.

For any faucet repair, you'll need an adjustable wrench or channel locks, a set of screwdrivers (both Phillips and flathead), and a flashlight. You'll also want plumber's grease (also called silicone grease), a bucket or container to catch water, and old towels or rags.

Depending on your faucet type, you'll need replacement parts: rubber washers and O-rings for compression faucets, a repair kit for ball faucets, a replacement cartridge for cartridge faucets, or inlet/outlet seals for ceramic disc faucets. I recommend taking photos of your faucet and bringing old parts to the hardware store to ensure you get exact replacements.

One tool that many people forget is painter's tape or masking tape. Use this to tape the drain shut or create a work surface—small screws and parts have an uncanny ability to disappear down drains when you're not looking.

Step-by-Step: Fixing a Compression Faucet

Compression faucets are the most common type that leak, but they're also the easiest to repair. The culprit is almost always a worn-out rubber washer that needs replacing. Here's exactly how to fix it.

Shut Off the Water Supply

Before touching anything, turn off the water supply to the faucet. Look under the sink for shut-off valves—turn them clockwise until tight. If there are no individual shut-off valves, you'll need to turn off the main water supply to your house.

Once the water is off, turn on the faucet to release any remaining pressure and drain water from the lines. Keep the faucet in the open position while you work.

Remove the Handle

Use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the decorative cap on top of the handle (usually marked H or C). Underneath, you'll find a screw—remove it with a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the handle straight up to remove it from the stem.

If the handle is stuck, try wiggling it gently or use a handle puller tool. Don't force it or you might crack the handle.

Remove the Packing Nut and Stem

Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the packing nut by turning it counterclockwise. Once loose, you can remove it by hand. Pull the entire stem assembly straight out—you may need to turn it as if you're opening the faucet fully.

Examine the stem carefully. At the bottom, you'll see a rubber washer held in place by a brass screw.

Replace the Washer and O-Ring

Remove the brass screw holding the washer in place. Replace the old washer with an exact duplicate—size matters here. While you're at it, replace the O-ring around the stem as well by rolling it off and rolling the new one on.

Apply a thin coat of plumber's grease to the new washer and O-ring. This helps create a better seal and makes future repairs easier.

Reassemble Everything

Insert the stem back into the faucet body and tighten the packing nut by hand first, then snug it with the wrench. Replace the handle and secure it with the screw, then snap the decorative cap back on.

Turn the water supply back on and test your faucet. No more drips? Congratulations—you just saved yourself a plumber's fee.

Step-by-Step: Fixing a Ball Faucet

Ball faucets have more moving parts than compression faucets, but they're still manageable for DIYers. I strongly recommend buying a complete ball faucet repair kit, which includes all the springs, seats, O-rings, and cam washers you'll need.

Shut Off Water and Remove Handle

Turn off the water supply under the sink and open the faucet to drain the lines. Locate the setscrew on the side of the handle (usually requiring an Allen wrench) and loosen it. Remove the handle by lifting it off.

Use channel locks or an adjustable wrench to unscrew the cap by turning it counterclockwise. Underneath, you'll see the cam, cam washer, and rotating ball.

Remove the Ball and Internal Parts

Lift out the cam and cam washer. The ball should now lift right out—note how the slot in the ball aligns with the pin inside the faucet body. Use needle-nose pliers to remove the inlet seals and springs from inside the faucet body.

This is where your repair kit comes in handy. You'll be replacing all these small components, so lay out your new parts for easy access.

Install New Parts

Insert new springs and rubber seats into the inlet holes—the springs go in first, then the rubber seats on top. Make sure they're seated properly. Place the new ball into the faucet body, aligning the slot with the pin.

Put the new cam washer on top of the ball, then the cam on top of that, making sure the tab on the cam fits into the slot in the faucet body. This alignment is crucial for proper operation.

Replace O-Rings and Reassemble

Check the O-rings on the spout (you may need to lift the spout off to access them). If they're worn, replace them with new ones from your kit, coating them with plumber's grease. Replace the spout if you removed it.

Screw the cap back on hand-tight, then snug it with the wrench. Replace the handle and tighten the setscrew. Turn the water back on and test for leaks.

Step-by-Step: Fixing a Cartridge Faucet

Cartridge faucets are extremely reliable, but when they leak, you usually need to replace the entire cartridge. The good news is that cartridges are inexpensive and replacement is straightforward.

Remove the Handle and Retaining Components

After shutting off the water and draining the faucet, remove the handle. Depending on your model, you may need to pry off a decorative cap and remove a screw, or loosen a setscrew. Lift off the handle.

Remove any retaining nut or clip holding the cartridge in place. Some cartridges have a circular retaining nut that unscrews; others have a U-shaped clip that you pull out with pliers. Consult your faucet's manual if you're unsure.

Extract the Old Cartridge

Grip the cartridge stem with pliers and pull straight up. Cartridges can be stubborn—you may need to twist gently while pulling. Some faucets have a specialized cartridge puller tool that makes this easier.

Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to ensure you get the exact replacement. Cartridges are brand and model-specific, so matching is essential.

Install the New Cartridge

Before installing the new cartridge, note its orientation. Most cartridges have a flat side or tab that must align properly with the faucet body—if it's rotated 180 degrees, your hot and cold will be reversed. Check the instructions that come with the cartridge.

Push the new cartridge into place, making sure it's fully seated. Replace the retaining clip or nut, then reassemble the handle.

Turn the water back on slowly and test the faucet. If hot and cold are reversed, you'll need to remove the cartridge, rotate it 180 degrees, and reinstall it.

Step-by-Step: Fixing a Ceramic Disc Faucet

Ceramic disc faucets are the most durable type, so leaks are less common. When they do leak, it's usually a simple fix involving the inlet and outlet seals.

Access the Cylinder

Turn off the water supply and open the faucet to drain it. Push the handle back to access the setscrew, which is usually hidden underneath the handle. Remove the setscrew and lift off the handle.

Unscrew the escutcheon cap (the decorative cover) by turning it counterclockwise. You should now see the disc cylinder—it's a large cylindrical piece, usually white or brass-colored.

Remove and Inspect the Cylinder

Remove any screws holding the cylinder in place, then lift it straight out. Flip it over to examine the inlet and outlet seals (the rubber rings on the bottom). If they're worn, cracked, or have mineral deposits, they need replacing.

Clean any sediment or mineral buildup from inside the cylinder and the faucet body using a soft cloth and white vinegar. This buildup can prevent proper sealing even with new parts.

Replace Seals and Reassemble

Remove the old seals—they usually pop out with a small screwdriver. Install new seals, making sure they're seated properly in their grooves. Apply a thin coat of plumber's grease to the seals.

Place the cylinder back into the faucet body and secure it with screws. Replace the escutcheon cap, handle, and setscrew. Turn the water back on slowly—ceramic disc faucets are sensitive to pressure surges, so avoid turning the water on full blast immediately.

Let water run through the faucet for a few minutes to flush out any debris. Your leak should be fixed.

When to Repair vs. Replace Your Faucet

Sometimes, fixing a leaky faucet isn't the best long-term solution. If your faucet is old, corroded, or has multiple issues, replacement might be more cost-effective than repeated repairs. Here's how to decide.

If your faucet is more than 15-20 years old, consider replacement. Modern faucets are more water-efficient and durable, and you'll recoup the cost through lower water bills. Similarly, if you've already repaired the same faucet multiple times, it's probably time to upgrade.

Visible corrosion, cracks in the faucet body, or damaged threads on connection points are signs that replacement is necessary. These structural issues can't be fixed with new washers or cartridges. Also, if you're doing a bathroom or kitchen renovation, upgrading to a new faucet makes sense both aesthetically and functionally.

On the other hand, if your faucet is relatively new (under 10 years), functions well aside from the leak, and replacement parts are readily available, repair is definitely the way to go. The cost of a repair kit is typically under $20, while a quality replacement faucet can run $100-$300 or more.

Think of faucet repair as part of a broader home maintenance strategy. Just as I recommend fixing a running toilet to save water, repairing a leaky faucet is a small effort that yields significant savings. However, if multiple fixtures are failing, it might indicate larger plumbing issues worth investigating.

Preventing Future Faucet Leaks

Once you've fixed your leaky faucet, you'll want to keep it functioning properly for as long as possible. A few simple maintenance habits can extend the life of your faucet and prevent future leaks.

First, don't overtighten faucet handles. Many people crank the handles as hard as they can when shutting off water, but this unnecessary force accelerates wear on washers and seals. A firm but gentle closure is all you need.

Second, address mineral buildup before it becomes a problem. If you have hard water, minerals can accumulate on seals and valve seats, preventing proper sealing. Periodically clean your faucet aerators and, if possible, install a water softener to reduce mineral content.

Third, fix small drips immediately. That occasional drip might seem harmless, but even small leaks cause continuous wear that worsens over time. Catching and fixing leaks early makes repairs easier and prevents water damage.

Finally, know when to call a professional. If you've attempted a repair and the leak persists, or if you notice leaks behind the wall or under the sink, it's time to bring in a licensed plumber. Some problems require specialized tools or expertise that go beyond basic DIY repairs.

The Environmental Impact of Fixing Leaks

Beyond saving money, fixing leaky faucets has a significant environmental benefit that's worth acknowledging. Water is a precious resource, and conservation starts at home with simple repairs like this one.

The EPA estimates that household leaks waste nearly 1 trillion gallons of water annually nationwide. That's equivalent to the annual water use of more than 11 million homes. By fixing a single leaky faucet, you're contributing to water conservation in a meaningful way.

Water conservation also reduces energy consumption. Treating and pumping water requires significant energy, so wasting less water means using less energy overall. This connects to broader home efficiency efforts, similar to strategies for saving money on your electric bill.

In areas experiencing drought or water restrictions, fixing leaks is even more critical. Some municipalities offer rebates or incentives for water-saving home improvements, so check with your local water utility to see if fixing your leaky faucet could qualify you for any programs.

Additional Plumbing Fixes to Save Money

Once you've successfully fixed your leaky faucet, you'll likely feel empowered to tackle other common plumbing issues around your home. These DIY repairs can save you hundreds of dollars in plumber fees while improving your home's water efficiency.

A running toilet is another major source of water waste, potentially wasting up to 200 gallons per day. Learn how to fix a running toilet using similar DIY skills—it's usually just a matter of replacing a flapper or fill valve.

Slow drains are another annoyance that's often easy to fix yourself. Before calling a plumber or pouring harsh chemicals down your drain, try unclogging your drain without chemicals using simple tools and natural solutions.

Beyond individual repairs, developing a comprehensive approach to water conservation can significantly lower your water bill. Combining multiple small fixes creates substantial savings over time.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my faucet is leaking from the handle or the spout?

A leak from the spout (the part where water comes out) typically indicates worn valve seats, washers, or cartridge seals—these are the internal components that control water flow. If water drips from the handle base or runs down the outside of the faucet when it's on, you likely have worn O-rings around the stem or cartridge. To diagnose, observe where water appears when the faucet is in different positions (on, off, partially on) and use that information to target your repair efforts.

Can I fix a faucet leak without turning off the main water supply?

In most cases, yes—you should have individual shut-off valves under the sink that control water to just that faucet. Turn both the hot and cold valves clockwise until they're fully closed, then open the faucet to verify no water flows. However, if your shut-off valves are corroded, stuck, or nonexistent, you'll need to turn off the main water supply to your home. If you're turning off the main supply, give everyone in your household advance notice, as it will affect all water usage.

My faucet still leaks after I replaced the washer. What else could be wrong?

If a new washer doesn't stop the leak, the problem is likely a damaged valve seat—the metal surface that the washer presses against to stop water flow. Over time, valve seats can become corroded or pitted, preventing a proper seal even with a new washer. You can try smoothing the valve seat with a seat-dressing tool (available at hardware stores), or you may be able to replace the valve seat entirely if it's removable. Also check that you installed the correct size washer and that the stem threads aren't damaged.

How long should a faucet repair last before I need to do it again?

With quality replacement parts and proper installation, a faucet repair should last 3-5 years or more, depending on water quality and usage. Compression faucets typically need more frequent repairs (every 2-3 years) because the washers wear out from constant compression. Cartridge and ceramic disc faucets can go 5-10 years between repairs if maintained properly. If you're repairing the same faucet annually, either you're using low-quality replacement parts, or the faucet itself is worn out and should be replaced. Hard water accelerates wear, so installing a water softener can extend the life of repairs significantly.

Final Thoughts: You've Got This

Fixing a leaky faucet might seem intimidating if you've never done it before, but as you've seen, it's a straightforward process that most homeowners can handle with basic tools and a little patience. The satisfaction of stopping that annoying drip and knowing you're saving money and water makes the 30-minute investment absolutely worthwhile.

Remember, the key is correctly identifying your faucet type and having the right replacement parts on hand. Take your time, work methodically, and don't hesitate to take photos at each step so you can reassemble everything correctly.

Most importantly, don't let a small leak become a big problem. That persistent drip is costing you money every single day it continues, and it only gets worse over time. Now that you have the knowledge and confidence to fix it yourself, there's no reason to delay—grab your tools and get started today.

Your wallet, your water bill, and the environment will all thank you for taking action. And once you've completed this repair, you'll have the skills and confidence to tackle many other common household fixes yourself.